Day Three - Hide and Go Seek Paths
Day Three on the Camino del San Salvador - Poladura de la Tercia to Pajares
Today’s walk began with an ascent that wouldn’t quit, or so it felt. About halfway up, I thought to myself that I could be on a tropical beach somewhere, being served a drink by a nice cabana man. When I reached top and took in the beauty of the Asturias around me, I was reminded that I don’t really like beaches and cabana men are highly overrated.
After spending so much time reading about the San Salvador, my heart leapt to see the Cruz del Salvador. A bit further was the Collada del Coito, the highest point on this Camino. The remainder of my 10 miles today was spent navigating narrow paths, keeping an eye out for the small metal scallop shell markers placed precariously throughout the way, and playing musical chairs with cattle blocking my way.
I’ve read that this Camino is both marked well, and not marked well. I’ll throw my lot in with the “marked well” group, with the condition that you must be on alert for the signs. It seems to me the Spanish government knows the exact psychological moment when you need assurance you’re heading the right direction. I was somewhat confused a couple of times today, but in my defense I’ve never done a Camino that involves traveling through a large cow pasture.
On the point of cows… This walk is not for anyone harboring a fear of them. I had numerous encounters with fairly gracious bovine today, all allowing me passage through both their pastures and roadways they were blocking as I approached. I also had an encounter with three very large guard dogs, who seemed to confer and decide, nose to nose and tails wagging, that I was no threat. The largest of these (who was the loudest), left the conference and began barking wildly at absolutely nothing in another part of the pasture. My dog Q would do well here.
So ends a day that overwhelmed me multiple times with its beauty - the mountains, ridge lines, fields of ferns and quiet forest resemble nothing I’ve seen before. I am thankful for the chance to be here.
Ultreia et Suseia