Camino Ocho Completo

The road invites its pilgrims to begin again—lifting the traveler from numbing familiarity and dropping him into new circumstances. Being a pilgrim allows all that, yet how strange and thrilling it feels.

Off The Road, Jack Hitt

We did it!

Can’t believe I’ve completed my 8th Camino. Lots of thoughts rattling around in my head right now, but that will work itself out later. Right now, it’s time to sit with my friend, enjoy a glass of wine and dinner, and watch the sunset in Muxia once again.❤️🥾🥾

To Taxi Or Not…?

Another 17 mile day, but what a different experience than yesterday! A few downpours along the way, but we both felt much stronger. We continue to comment to each other that we have nothing to prove, and if we decide we’re wearing thin we will take a taxi. And yet we continue walking.

The farmland in Galicia is so beautiful - much better land than the meseta with its fertilized fields. We took an alternate route which gave us some great views, had a fantastic bocadilla in Santa Mariña (my third time eating there - maybe because it’s the only place to eat on this stretch? I was able to pet three dogs, and am currently tucked into my bunk (with curtains!) after a wonderful dinner and a couple glasses of wine. Manon and I entered the restaurant tonight while some great 80’s music was playing - we grabbed hands and danced our way to the counter, and not a smile appeared on anyone’s face. Tough crowd in O Logoso tonight…

Out Of Santiago And On To A Peña

Today was a long one - 30 km. I swear the distance markers were stuck on “15 km left to go” for about 4 hours. The rain held off until the last 40 minutes, so that’s something to be thankful for. I know for myself, I definitely hit a wall - a busy day yesterday, late night, not much sleep and cold weather made for some sluggish walking on my part. The owner of the albergue said we made great time from Santiago, but it sure felt like a long slog to me! Lots of breaks, water and lunch helped break the day up. I’m looking forward to dinner and bed.😴

Santiago

The arrival into Santiago from the Camino Inglés is wonderful. You walk through the usual industrial area, but once you reach the inter city, you’re traveling through unfamiliar roads, with far fewer pilgrims. The best part of all? You don’t see the cathedral until the last kilometer or so, and the streets you’re walking through to get there are winding and full of interesting old hotels and shops.

It was a special moment for us to arrive in Santiago together this time. When we first met on the Primitivo last year, Manon had to hurry ahead as she was meeting friends in Finisterre. We met again in Santiago later that same trip, but we weren’t able to arrive together then, as we did this time. It was a happy moment - and then moments later, we saw our German, Italian and Spanish friends that we’d met as we walked the past 6 days. Although this Camino has been the shortest I’ve walked, the connections made seem just as fast as those I’ve forged on other, longer Caminos. Lots to think about there - what is it that creates that connection?

Eucalyptus Forests And Fields of Green

Neither of us mentioned the “r” word, and we made it through 14 miles with only a few sprinkles to dodge. However, we suffered a major disappointment today when we walked past a sign with “Cowmino” written on it. This is something we thought only we were clever enough to think of when we walked the Primitivo last year, so feeling a bit humbled right now…😉

Tomorrow we arrive in Santiago! This is the shortest Camino, outside of walking to Finisterre and Muxia, that I’ve done. A comfortable albergue bed was waiting for us in Sigüeiro at the Segue O Camino Albergue, and I’m already missing Manon - and we’re not even at the cathedral yet.🥾🥾

A Day of Rain

A rainy, cold day on the Inglés. I blame it on Manon - it was gray and cool, but dry. Then, she said the word “rain,” and it began.

Manon read about an alternate route for today’s walk, which kept us off the road much of the time. The Buen Camino app is the only app that seems to show it - it’s the old route before it was diverted to the road. It is well marked and easy to follow - I’ve included a picture of it if you’re walking the Inglés and would like to spend less time on the road between Betanzos and Bruma. It was quite nice, and only muddy in one spot. Fourteen miles today, most spent in the rain, but we had a good day regardless. 🥾🥾

Bentanzos and Fiestas

An “easy” day of 13 miles. There were a few climbs that had us uttering words that should not be said on a Sunday, but we are at our albergue and all is well. This Camino is around 85% paved, so shoes with a good amount of cushion are really important. I’m really missing my Speedgoats, and I’m only on day 2 - this doesn’t bode well! Apparently, all Hokas are not created equal…

There was a fiesta tonight, and not much room at the inn. I’m glad we had reservations, as it seems everyone’s family has shown up from all over Galicia for the party. Fortunately our albergue was far enough away that the music didn’t keep us up. Although to be fair, I’m not sure if anything would have kept us up, we were so tired!

We had a very funny encounter in the morning - for the Americans, imagine being served your coffee and croissant by Tim Conway from The Carol Burnett Show. Priceless memory.

In Step - Again…

A good first day. We walked 18.2 miles from Ferrol to Pontedeume, and I’m showing a 44 flight climb for the day - not close to the 188 flights clocked on the Primitivo’s Hospitales Route, but a respectable wake-up call to my quads. The walk was mostly paved (not the nicest to walk on), with a nice bit of eucalyptus forest in the latter part of the day. It took quite a while to walk out of Ferrol. It’s a major port and military base - the equipment for the loading and unloading of shipments is massive - really interesting and active port!

It feels good to be walking again, meeting new people, pushing myself to keep pace on the hills. We didn’t use poles for the first half of the walk, and oh my, did I notice the swelling in my hands! I pulled them out for the big climb of the day, and the relief was almost immediate. We’ve checked into our albergue, showered, clothes on the line - and we are starving! Heading out for some pulpo and a glass of wine.❤️

A Coruña

On the bus, headed to Ferrol and Manon. I walked to the station this morning, rather than taking the city bus. Mornings in Spain are so much more interesting from the sidewalks - moms and dads walking little ones to school, a brother stealing his little sister’s hat and running away, languid teens shuffling to class as slowly as possible, smartly dressed ladies drinking coffee at cafés. Such a lovely city!

A Day Spent In Santiago Pre-Camino Inglès

I spent my evening at a tapas bar with a couple from Poland - married 25 years, and an Irish man about Sam’s age and his Dutch friend with whom he has been walking with - they only met two weeks ago and are already planning their next walk. None of us knew each other when we sat down at the bar, but we left as friends, with a greater understanding of each others cultures. And that is what the Camino provides.❤️

Traveling - Again…

There’s a moment when you collapse into the plastic airport chair and exhale all the air you’ve been holding on to for days, weeks, months, maybe years. You are now committed to the audacious journey you’ve spoken of, planned too much for, not planned enough for, taken a risk and jumped into. For those walking the first time, it’s the unknown you worry about. For those walking a second or third time, it’s the excitement of returning, and the trepidation that it will somehow be different than what you remembered. As you sit there, ticket in hand, you secretly hope someone might notice your pack and ask the question, “Are you walking the Camino?”