Day Four - Vistas
Day Three on the Camino del San Salvador - Pajares to Bendieños
Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.
― T.S. Eliot
Today I competed the Munisteria Alternative on the San Salvador. It is a 4.8km mountainous route with an elevation gain/loss of 133/-387m. I’ve spent months dreaming about this day, and have lost hours of sleep (previous posts), agonizing over the weather, my abilities, and how I would deal with the potential of not being able to walk it, if the storms continued. It has been an exercise in letting go of that which I cannot control.
Marcelle and I left early in the rain this morning, committed to what the day would bring. The villages we passed through were quiet (no cafe con leche around every turn on this Camino). We were joined in Santa Marie by Miguel, who told us of the party in the small village last night, and of endless cider and empanadas. And then suddenly, the downpour stopped and the sky was blue. There, still wet with the rain, was the sign I’d been waiting for - one way up and difficult, or another taking the road. Miguel said “It’s difficult. I’m in!” I eagerly nodded yes, and Marcelle made the hard decision to stay to the road.
The next 5km, as well as the remaining 5km down, was the most difficult day on a Camino I have ever spent. And yet, a Camino gives you more in exchange than it takes. Miguel shared his story of cancer and how the Camino saved him. I shared my heart surgery experience with him, and we spoke of the way the Camino centers us, how it reminds us how fragile life is, how thankful we are to walk this holy path. After a final push that required full concentration, suddenly we were at the top and all the worry over “what ifs” was gone.
The Asturias astonish me with their sharp beauty and dark hidden forests. I have never known a place like this and I have never worked so hard to reach it. And then, after walking that last painful 1.5km to the incredible donativo albergue in Bendueños, I look out over a view I will forever see in my mind, and cry. At the end of this day, my wonderful companions are here with me, sitting on the edge of this place and moment, sharing life stories, thoughts and hopes. This is a sacred place on this mountain and I am privileged to share the view with these people.
